You arrive, and the noise drops a level.
Villa Ampurdán is a small hostal run by one family, set back from the marina behind a honey-coloured stone arch and a green shuttered door. It is not a resort and was never trying to be. It is a handful of rooms, a garden full of old palms, and people who have been doing this long enough to know exactly when to leave you alone.
Everything here is on the other side of that arch: the long tables under the trees, the smell of dinner starting, and the lane that drops down to the cove. You are two minutes from the water and a world away from the traffic on the hill.
See the rooms